Morning AfterMay the wind be ever at your back, and your stomach never a stranger
from a pub brunch.
BY ANN CHRISTENSON
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One helluva breakfast sandwich from The Irish Pub
Photo Adam Ryan Morris
It's a slow-motion sequence. Could be a cheesy commercial or a Zach Galifianakis
movie. Or maybe it's real: The air propels the server from the kitchen to the bar,
the plate in her hand leading her forward to the outstretched arms of a diner. The
handoff comes effortlessly. The coveted breakfast sandwich reaches its destination.
But it's not just any breakfast sandwich. A pulled pork, biscuit, egg, cabbage slaw
and pepper jack cheese sandwich. The runny egg yolk dribbles over the biscuit side
and onto the plate.
Breathless. And not just because of the compound modifier.
In recent months, the Third Ward's 7-year-old Irish Pub has put extra chutzpah into
its brunch menu, served Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. If you're thinking straight-up
eggs and bacon, shake off those prosaic images. Get your head around "crispy eggs"
(soft-cooked, encased in sausage deep-fried, $10), and grilled chicken chorizo with
spinach-potato hash ($12). The kitchen's output is a team effort here, but menu
creation props go to owner Rebecca Goldberger (formerly a partner in the late Roots
Restaurant & Cellar) and Erik Hansen, a chef whose talents have been felt from
Ristorante Bartolotta to Hinterland and restaurants in between.
Another unexpected find in a shot-and-a-beer bar? RumChata French toast topped with
a cloud of lightly sweetened sour cream ($10). I wouldn't suggest washing it down
with a Guinness, but either of the fried egg sandwiches – the aforementioned pulled
pork and the equally excellent version with bacon and a sausage patty instead of
pork – would stand up to a beer, and vice versa.
I leave you with a parting thought – of biscuits
dressed in sausage and mushroom gravy and served alongside pub potatoes and Yorkshire
pudding. A kind of gastronomic hair of the dog.